Where to Eat in Edmonton

• Skinny Legs & Cowgirls

  Chef Susan Kellock and her daughter, Amy, operate this 18-seat gem in a strip mall. The Mixed Grill, featuring lamb, strip loin, tenderloin, a potato gratin and “an abundance of veggies,” is listed as feeding two but could probably suffice for four. Just be warned: The $90 price is a shock, even though they pile the plate with so many layers of food that one contented diner referred to it as “forensic dining.”

  9008 Jasper Ave., Edmonton, 780-423-4107, http://skinnylegsandcowgirls.comFrom: The Next 20

• Characters

  This spacious and elegant brick-walled downtown dining room is a popular place for working dinners. Staples like the Black Angus beef tenderloin mingle on the menu with less Albertan (but no less delicious) plates like the pan-seared Brome Lake duck breast with apple-cider butter sauce.

  10257 105th St., Edmonton, 780-421-4100, http://characters.ca

• Tzin

  Tzin is a small, sexy, upscale room located on the burgeoning 104th Street strip. The walls are a rich burgundy interrupted by shimmering curtains that frame large windows, and the subtle ambient drum-and-bass sounds complement the bold colour palette, creating an immersive effect. Small plates like scallops with chorizo, short ribs and fabada (Spanish hot pot) are among the most interesting parts of the menu, but the real stars are the spices and dips. Pair with big wines like the Italian Villa Spinosa Amarone or the Amon-Ra Shiraz from Australia.

  10115 104th St., 780-428-8946

• Ruth’s Chris Steak House

  Ruth’s Chris, in a downtown heritage building that was a bank in a previous life, is a chain steak house made unique by its setting. The private dining spaces are in former vaults, ensconced in two feet of concrete. The comfier tables (that don’t make you feel like John Dillinger) are those closest to the large fireplaces. And, chain or not, the cuts are top-notch.

  9990 Jasper Ave., Edmonton, 780-990-0123, http://ruthschris.com

• Dadeo Diner & Bar

  One of the most persistently popular restaurants in the city, Dadeo has a formula that’s tough to crack – slightly snooty service and more than slightly hokey decor never seem to dampen the mood. And who knew there was such demand for simple, well-prepared Cajun diner food in Edmonton? Maybe it’s just the sweet potato fries.

  10548a Whyte Ave., Edmonton, 780-433-0930, http://dadeo.ca

• Culina Highlands

  It’s a niche that’s becoming pretty crowded in Montreal, Vancouver and Toronto: unpretentious cooking with a focus on quality preparation and fresh, sustainably sourced ingredients. In Edmonton, the two Culinas have this category almost all to themselves. Culina Highlands is the newer second location that followed the Mill Creek Culina, on the other side of the river. Both are inviting neighbourhood spots that offer Ukrainian-inflected haute comfort food.

  6509 112th Ave., Edmonto, 780-477-2422, http://culinafamily.ca

• Leva

  If the battle of Alberta were fought by baristas and not hockey players, Leva’s caffeine merchants would be the stars on the losing team. Edmonton doesn’t take coffee as seriously as Calgary, but this Euro-style gem is a big exception. Their beans are roasted in a century-old Danesi Italian roaster, and they boast about some sort of “tripartite foundation” for the perfect joe that we still don’t quite understand. This is pretty much as serious as coffee gets.

  11053 86th Ave., Edmonton, 780-479-5382, http://levabar.com

• Khazana

  This downtown cult favourite describes its food as “pleasing to those possessing the quality of truth.” We’d describe it as classic, affordable, top-tier Tandoori cooking. Bring a big group and order to share, because you’ll want to try everything.

  10177 107th St., Edmonton, 780-702-0330, khazana.ab.ca

Where to Drink in Edmonton

• Suede Lounge

  This trendy, loungey Jasper Avenue bar is a popular after-work option with the pointy-shoe set. Flatbreads (pizzas), burgers with truffle mayo and tapas plates like prawn cakes are good enough to persuade more than a few of them to hang out for dinner. Some even stay late as the hipster electro soundtrack builds tempo (and rises in volume).

  11806 Jasper Ave., Edmonton, 780-482-0707, http://suedelounge.ca

• Cook County Saloon

  For an unmistakably Albertan nightlife experience, check out “Canada’s Best Country Nightclub,” where “real” cowboys and cowgirls giddy-up to the latest country tunes in a barn-like venue. Of course, there’s a mechanical bull in front, and a spontaneous two-step has been known to break out.

  8010 Gateway Blvd., Edmonton, 780-432-2665, http://cookcountysaloon.com

• Sugar Bowl Coffee & Juice Bar

  In the summer, the big, bright patio here is the main draw. In the winter, the great selection of microbrews and the laid-back vibe attract students. The food never seems to be the focus, which might be a little unfair, since everything from the bison chili with cornbread to (strangely) the rainbow trout gets high marks.

  10922 88th Ave., Edmonton, 780-433-8369, http://thesugarbowl.org

• The Starlite Room

  The infamous Starlite Room, in a historic downtown brick building, is Edmonton’s premier small-concert venue. High ceilings and great acoustics attract indie-ish talent like Metric and Wintersleep. One floor down is a perplexing mix of bands, DJs, happy-hour specials and late-night eats called Brixx Bar & Grill.

  10030 102nd St., Edmonton, 780-428-7827, http://starliteroom.ca

Arts & Culture

• Metro Cinema

  Metro Cinema nights, a series of screenings presented at Zeidler Hall in the Citadel Theatre, are at the heart of Edmonton’s lively cinephile community. You can catch an old classic like Rashomon or a rare independent flick fresh from Cannes.

  9828 101A Ave., Edmonton, 780-425-9212, http://metrocinema.org

• Art Gallery of Alberta

  You’ll have to wait until early 2010 to see the newly designed Art Gallery of Alberta, an 85,000-square-foot venue created by Los Angeles-based Randall Stout Architects. Inside the glass and steel building you’ll find one of the most important collections of Canadian and native art.

  Temporary location at 100–10230 Jasper Ave., Edmonton, 780-422-6223, http://artgalleryalberta.com

• Princess and Garneau Theatres

  The Princess, a classic Whyte Avenue cinema space, hasn’t changed much since it was built in 1915 – one exception would be the addition of a soundproof crying room, complete with a change table, for families. The Garneau, only a few blocks away, offers a great selection of cult favourites in an original 1940 building. Of course, there’s an annual Rocky Horror Picture Show night. You can catch matinees every Saturday and Sunday afternoon in both theatres; all seats are $6 on Monday night.

  Princess Theatre, 10337 82nd Ave., Edmonton & Garneau Theatre, 8712 109th St., Edmonton, Princess Theatre 780-439-9100, Garneau Theatre, 780-433-2212, http://rainbowcinemas.ca

• TransAlta Arts Barns

  Located next to the farmers’ market, this cultural institution seats 400 people in a remarkably intimate space. Performances feature local talent and range from children’s plays to opera acts.

  10330 84th Ave., Edmonton, 780-448-9000

• Latitude 53

  In this edgy downtown gallery, you’ll find experimental works in a variety of disciplines and media by local artists exploring new forms of artistic expression. The gallery also hosts an annual festival dedicated to visual arts that showcases talented young artists from across Canada.

  10248 106th St., Edmonton, 780-423-5353, http://latitude53.org

Shopping

• Call the Kettle Black

  “Kitchens are becoming a gathering place, and people want to show off that mixer in the corner,” says Darcy Kaser, who runs these two impeccably organized kitchen supply shops with his father, Gordon, and Randall MacDonald. Call the Kettle Black offers plenty of show-off-able items, including French Mauviel copper saucepans, gleaming Chicago Metallic pots and Moroccan tajine cookers. Pots and pans aside, it’s worth the trip for the expansive collection of pepper mills alone.

  12523 102nd Ave., 780-448-2861 and 444 Riverbend Square2, Edmonton, 780-434-162, http://callthekettleblack.comFrom: Globe Shopper

• 29 Armstrong

  Started in December 2007 by retail veteran Amedeo Pagliuso and industrial designer Bryan Humphrey, 29 Armstrong caters to serious furniture-design aficionados. Standout lines include Bensen’s Vancouver-made modular seating systems and Tonin Casa’s beautifully constructed Italian glass and steel pieces. The store will ship to anywhere in Canada, and good thing too: Some of the best stuff (like Tonin) is nearly impossible to find elsewhere.

  10129 104th St., Edmonton, 780-758-4940, http://29armstrong.com

• Bamboo Ballroom

  On buzzing Whyte Avenue, Bamboo Ballroom stands out as one of the best places in town to find brands like Religion and Miss Sixty to rock at the nearby clubs. Ask the owner, Anastasia, for an appointment with the stylists and estheticians who work in the back and save yourself some prep time before heading out on the town.

  8206 104th St., Edmonton, 780-439-1363, http://bambooballroom.com

• Thread Hill

  This boutique has a meticulously curated collection of designer clothes and accessories from New York, Paris and L.A. You won’t find any big names, just select labels like Cop Copine, Ruelle and Makers of True Originals, many of which are exclusive to Thread Hill in Edmonton.

  10725 124th St., Edmonton, 780-482-1200, http://threadhill.com

• Nokomis

  Step into this quaint shop filled with retro furniture, crafty cushions and vintage photos, and you will find artsy, edgy lines by more than 40 up-and-coming Canadian designers. New stock is delivered weekly, so you’ll always have a reason to go back to get your dose of indie style.

  10318 82nd Ave., Edmonton, 780-432-7462, http://nokomisclothing.ca

Getting from the Airport

Edmonton International Airport is located about 30 minutes by car to the south of the city. The airport is well served by taxis and limos, but since it’s not accessible by public transit, the most affordable option is the $15 Sky Shuttle.

Taxis

Cab drivers are tough to hail in Edmonton, so it’s best to call ahead or grab one from a nearby hotel. Many residents complain of taxi shortages during peak times.

Public Transportation

The Edmonton Transit System (ETS) is very busy, with a huge bus system and a modest but growing light-rail network that links the north side of the river with the south. Fare is $2.50.